The history of this area of northern India is complex, with Hindu States existing in various relationships with the Mogul Emperors based in their various historic capitals around the area. The various Hindu states appear to have had varying relationships with the Moguls, depending on the balance of power between the states, and especially the strength or weakness of the moguls at different times. Jaipur while being a strong Indian state always conceded supremacy to the Moguls. While Udaipur struggled to maintain itself as an independent Hindu state, and only offered friendship to the moguls, on an equal basis, or war. Interestingly, Udaipur was the only state not represented at the Durbar of 1911, when every other state came in homage to the British, to the festivities in Delhi. Udaipur stated it would come to the Durbar in a relationship of friendship to the British, but NOT as a client state, and their seat remained empty at the celebrations. It is a great matter of pride for Rajasthani Indians that their leaders stood up to the greatest empire the world has ever seen, and the leader of Udaipur was known as Maharana, or Great Warrior, as opposed to Maharajah, or great leader in the other Hindu states.
Anyway, the major fortresses around the planes are incredible, varying from the red fort in Delhi to various other forts we visited. Jaipur is the most whole of the Indian fortresses, strategically built on the area mountains, with a military fortress complex at the highest point, and the Maharajas Palace below, well protected and fortified, and on one side of a lake that provided both cooling water breezes, and essential water for the residences.
We started our day from the parking lot adjacent to the lake, where we were seated two to an elephant on the howdah, (the major seat on the elephants back) for the long climb up the hill. Photographers scrambled around and later sold us great pictures of our ride, while the elephant ambled up the hill through turreted entrances, and adjacent to fortress battlements. We disembarked at the base of the actual palace, several hundred feet vertically above the lake, and began the tour through the palace, the harem, the wife’s palace, and the other rooms of the complex. Jaipur is a thrilling facility to visit, and with a good guide the whole facility comes to life. I wish we had longer to visit it, but we were on a mission, and our schedule demanded we only stayed for a morning to see the facility.
The next day we departed Jaipur for Udaipur, a long, long drive broken up by a great lunch at a small princely lodge where we feasted on local specialties, and Kingfisher beer. Kingfisher is the perfect beer for spiced foods, locally made and light in flavour, and I enjoyed one or two with every local lunch or dinner throughout the tour. When we were served “continental” foods, I enjoyed Indian wine, especially Sula vineyards better red wines, which I found to be good value, and full bodied. Who knew that around Bombay, there is a wine growing countryside?
Anyway, the journey was long but eventually we arrived at Devi Ratn, a spectacular hilltop palace that had been converted into an incredible hotel. I personally would not have stayed in another Devi Hotel, after experiencing Devi Garh, as I didn’t feel they offered the best value for money in a luxury environment. However, this was completely a different experience. The bus turned off the highway into a small village with this magnificent castle in all its Indian glory gazing down at us, about a kilometre away. We drove to the gates, got off the bus and walked through the entrance while a traditional welcome was given us, as literally thousands of rose petals were thrown over us as we walked through the gates. Beautiful, like everything else at the hotel. Elevators have been built into the property, but if you get to visit, and can, walk up the huge stone stairs to your room or suite. Mine, room 33 was three floors above the entrance, in the “ladies section” of the old palace. Cleanly decorated my room was gorgeous. I had a turret which was part of the room, with seating in it, and screens to keep bugs out, (I took a strong bug repellant to Indian, carried it around for two weeks, and am bringing the same full bottle home with me. Maybe during monsoons, but I didn’t experience any bugs, anywhere) adjacent to a room with a breakfast table and seating in it, which connected to the entrance hall of the “room”. Then came a large bedroom, very well appointed, with a really comfortable bed, and three large sets of windows. Next was the room with the bathroom vanity, and faunally a large bathroom, shower and enormous bath. Lots of space, very beautiful with stunning valley views, and beautiful wooden shutters on the inside of the windows. We heard how the castle was bought and renovated and it was clearly a labour of love.
The hotel has a great pool, spa and gym area, with a huge exterior hot tub on a bluff, as well as a delightful restaurant and bar. We visited several rooms and all in the castle were gorgeous, while the newer garden rooms are fine but honestly, don’t stay there, you’ll miss the whole point of the place. Best was the presidential suite, which was a bargain at approximately $1500. It shares a swimming pool with another room, and is built atop the battlements, with huge space and beautiful furnishings. Definitely, the best value suite we saw anywhere, and if it wasn’t the best suite too, it was close. I would love to stay there for three days, just hanging out. A real must have experience for anyone going to India.
The hotel also has wonderful private eating spaces. We had a delightful meal atop the walls one night, in a private enclosed area under the stars, while the other night we ate Indian style, on the floor with turbans on, in a wonderful small hall with private entertainment, great Indian food and service. I can’t recommend this property enough.
I was tired from the travel and didn’t go for a cycle ride in the morning which one of our team did, ending up with yoga at dawn on a hilltop. Instead, I sipped tea while looking down at the village waking up. My room gave me a whole new perspective as I could watch people sleeping on the rooftops, and starting their day in the fields. Peeping Tom, but nothing untoward!
For the whole day in Udaipur, we went into the city, and had a guided tour of the Maharana’s Palace and the museum he has built into it, before going to the private island where the Taj Palace Hotel is built. Another lovely hotel, which anywhere else would win kudos from me for style, but I just didn’t appreciate it as much as the Devi. Then to the more modern Oberoi, which also is stunning, but “just” another luxury hotel. Either of the in town hotels would please everyone, they had style, class and great service, but Devi Garh was my hotel “of the year”.
The next day, up early and to the airport for a short flight to Mumbai, for a totally different India. Mumbai is the financial, business and Bollywood city of India, and teams with more modern cars and services compared to the other cities, and the vibrant lifestyle of a business centre.